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HDR projects 5 (Win&Mac) Giveaway
$69.00
EXPIRED

Giveaway of the day — HDR projects 5 (Win&Mac)

The Experts’ HDR Solution!
$69.00 EXPIRED
User rating: 94 (93%) 7 (7%) 45 comments

HDR projects 5 (Win&Mac) was available as a giveaway on May 25, 2021!

Today Giveaway of the Day
$19.95
free today
An advanced malware removal and browser protection utility.

HDR projects 5 is directed at photographers not content with everyday photography and those who want to distance themselves from the mainstream. HDR projects 5 reduces the amount of time on set and provides new and innovative possibilities for transforming your photographs into brilliant works of art — all this while choosing from an intelligently adaptive tool-set part of an efficient and transparent workflow. The fully equipped Professional-Toolbox from HDR projects 5 provides access to a collection of finely adjusted Presets on the left and a variety of Expert Filters on the right. Arrange your favorite tools however you’d like, now in 4K resolution!

System Requirements:

Minimum: Windows 7/ 8/ 10, Prozessor Core Duo, 2 GB HDD, 1.280 x 1024 Pixels Screen Resolution, Graphic: DirectX-8-compatible, 128 MB, 32 bit colour depth; Mac OS X ab 10.7, 64 Bit, Prozessor Intel/G5, 2 GB HDD, 1.280 x 1024 Pixels Screen Resolution

Publisher:

FRANZIS Verlag GmbH

Homepage:

https://www.projects-software.com/hdr/hdr-projects-5

File Size:

54.5 MB

Licence details:

Lifetime

Price:

$69.00

GIVEAWAY download basket

Enhance your images and organize them using tags.
Design illustrations and vector graphics, edit photos.
Manage and modify multiple graphics packages.
Access Photoshop, InDesign, Illustrator, and Acrobat software.

Comments on HDR projects 5 (Win&Mac)

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#21

Do you need an HDR monitor?

Reply   |   Comment by Is an HDR monitor required?  –  22 days ago  –  Did you find this comment useful? yes | no (-1)

Is an HDR monitor required?

No an HDR monitor is NOT REQUIRED and an HDR Monitor is not recommended. These are 2 HDR different functions.

Reply   |   Comment by Eileen  –  22 days ago  –  Did you find this comment useful? yes | no (0)
#20

Everybody already wrote about the registration process. But once past all that the program keeps being annoying. It will take a while to check most of the features, but here is what annoys at the very beginning:
- you cannot close the image without closing the program - the Ctrl+W function usual for most of processing software. And if you want then to open another image you need to re-start the program.
- you need to tweak lots of default options before using the program. The most annoying for me were TIFF compression method, default of which other programs, like Irfan Viewer and GIMP, displayed as a much darker version than the original; and preview mode which kept saving the resulting file way smaller than the original image.

Reply   |   Comment by SK  –  22 days ago  –  Did you find this comment useful? yes | no (0)
#19

No problems with installation but I can't see anywhere in this program where I can load a photo.

Reply   |   Comment by Brian  –  22 days ago  –  Did you find this comment useful? yes | no (0)

I have a later version but I suspect it is still either:
File->HDR from a single image
(For which you really want a raw file)
Or preferably:
File->Import Exposure Bracketing

Reply   |   Comment by JohnL  –  22 days ago  –  Did you find this comment useful? yes | no (0)
#18

if you have the last GIVEAWAY of this product from Wed, Oct 14, 2020 the same info applies.

Reply   |   Comment by Andres Sanchez Rodriguez  –  22 days ago  –  Did you find this comment useful? yes | no (0)
#17

Seems like I currently have HDR Projects 4 PRO installed. Is there any reason that I should stick with this version over HDRP5? I'm not seeing a "Pro" version of 5, so should I assume that despite the word Pro not being part of the name, the registered version of 5 would be like owning the pro version?

Reply   |   Comment by FeMaster  –  23 days ago  –  Did you find this comment useful? yes | no (0)

I think at some point they stopped having raw support with the non-Pro version. I think it was after v5 but can't swear to it. You really want someone here to say if this version has raw support and if not I'd be inclined to stick with 4 Pro.

Reply   |   Comment by JohnL  –  22 days ago  –  Did you find this comment useful? yes | no (0)
#16

As with most Franzis giveaways, registration was easy until opening the program. As normal, this is where most get confused. The read me mentions nothing about a popup asking for a serial number. The serial number is the REGISTRATION in your email. It's an ongoing problem with poor explanations from the developer and it seems most people just say "read the read me file".

Reply   |   Comment by levitiquetus  –  23 days ago  –  Did you find this comment useful? yes | no (+12)
#15

After install I start the program and it says its a 30-Day Trial and must enter serial number? THERE IS NO SERIAL NUMBER?

Reply   |   Comment by kay  –  23 days ago  –  Did you find this comment useful? yes | no (-1)

kay,
You should have the serial number sent to you by email. The serial and registration number are the same.

Reply   |   Comment by Brian  –  22 days ago  –  Did you find this comment useful? yes | no (+1)

Brian, 22 hours and still waiting for the e-mail, but never mind, the time has expired to install it anyway.

Reply   |   Comment by Jeff  –  22 days ago  –  Did you find this comment useful? yes | no (0)
#14

Downloaded the software and started the install, but stuck waiting for the license code to be sent. Checked spam folder, nothing. Been over two hours, so not holding out much hope at this point.

Reply   |   Comment by HerbA  –  23 days ago  –  Did you find this comment useful? yes | no (+3)

HerbA,
Same
even restarted process to no avail

Reply   |   Comment by maddog7  –  23 days ago  –  Did you find this comment useful? yes | no (0)
#13

unable to install...showing error. pls help

Reply   |   Comment by rahul  –  23 days ago  –  Did you find this comment useful? yes | no (-1)
#12

As usual, great photo editing program.

Usual horrible but easy registration - I would recommend creating an account with Franzis/project-software and have that account login available in the browser for when you select the Internet button for registration because it will then auto-populate your email address in the login screen.

The includes presets for Adobe are an added bonus.

Reply   |   Comment by Kyle  –  23 days ago  –  Did you find this comment useful? yes | no (+3)
#11

My install seems to stall at installing Microsoft Visual. Suggestions?

Reply   |   Comment by BillT  –  23 days ago  –  Did you find this comment useful? yes | no (+4)
#10

Loading
Loading image: IMG_20210522_161639_488.jpg
IMG_20210522_161639_488.jpg: Preparing image
IMG_20210522_161639_488.jpg: File could not be loaded
An error has occurred.
50%
Unavailable, there is a problem.
I tried two computers, and the above problems appeared in the operation

Reply   |   Comment by Nancy  –  23 days ago  –  Did you find this comment useful? yes | no (+3)

Is the image anywhere I could try it?

Reply   |   Comment by JohnL  –  22 days ago  –  Did you find this comment useful? yes | no (0)
#9

How can I find the serial number?

Reply   |   Comment by mok cp  –  23 days ago  –  Did you find this comment useful? yes | no (-2)

mok cp, follow the instructions in the readme

Reply   |   Comment by BillT  –  23 days ago  –  Did you find this comment useful? yes | no (+1)

I discover it myself, serial number is the same as the registration code.

Reply   |   Comment by Mok C P  –  23 days ago  –  Did you find this comment useful? yes | no (+4)

mok cp, the serial number is the registration number in your email.

Reply   |   Comment by levitiquetus  –  23 days ago  –  Did you find this comment useful? yes | no (+3)
#8

where to find the serial no

Reply   |   Comment by carmel  –  23 days ago  –  Did you find this comment useful? yes | no (-7)

carmel, the serial number is the registration number in your email.

Reply   |   Comment by levitiquetus  –  23 days ago  –  Did you find this comment useful? yes | no (+2)
#7

Dear users
After install it shows pop-up - not starting there is no MCVCP90.dll in PC
My system is Windows 7 Home Premium
I tried to install MCVCP90.dll but the program iz no starting and shows again-
there is no MCVCP90.dll in PC
Please give ei all solutions to solve this

Reply   |   Comment by Caroline  –  23 days ago  –  Did you find this comment useful? yes | no (+11)

Caroline,
was it not MSVCP90.dll ? It's part of Microsoft Visual C++ Runtime Library. You can Google it. It is as simple as downloading the correct version (32 or 64 bit) and placing it in the folder containing the executable of the program that needs the dll. Of course you may install the entire Visual C++ if you prefer, but that should not be necessary.

Reply   |   Comment by JoeJ  –  23 days ago  –  Did you find this comment useful? yes | no (+7)
#6

The GOTD is HDR Projects 5. The box with your featured app is HDR projects 8 Pro. I'm assuming 5 will not work on an M1 Mac.

Reply   |   Comment by Tony  –  23 days ago  –  Did you find this comment useful? yes | no (+2)

Tony, The download will offer a Mac version, if it is available.

Reply   |   Comment by Rick_S  –  23 days ago  –  Did you find this comment useful? yes | no (+1)
#5

Fast install without problems, Menu's and icons are very small on high density display (you may need a windows loup until you know them). Contains raw processor for all kind of old and new camera's of different brands. Allows wide range of fine tuning from the initial presets. Has a large undo.

Reply   |   Comment by guus  –  23 days ago  –  Did you find this comment useful? yes | no (+13)

I'd suggest, on WIndows 10, that you right mouse button the program, select Properties, then the Compatibility tab, click "Change high DPI settings", tick "Override high DPI scaling..." at the bottom of the next dialogue and select "System (Enhanced)", or if that doesn't work well then "System".

Reply   |   Comment by JohnL  –  23 days ago  –  Did you find this comment useful? yes | no (+22)
#4

Can't locate where to activate today's software. Everything else went OK.

Reply   |   Comment by dMf  –  23 days ago  –  Did you find this comment useful? yes | no (+1)
#3

I wrote this for the previous HDR5 Giveaway, so I'll just update it and put it here in case it's of any use to anyone:

"High Dynamic Range" is referring to enabling you to see more of the brightness range in the original scene. Cameras can only capture 12-14 stops of brightness (outside that range you get white at the top end and black at the bottom). What the camera's exposure system allows is for you (or it) to choose what brightness level that range is arranged about.

You can have 20 stops of brightness in a scene, so whatever exposure you choose a lot of the detail won't appear (you should get everything on a dull day with 8 stops of DR in the scene though). However by taking 3 (say) 14 stop images separated by 3 stops you get information for 20 stops of brightness (so for the Sunny Window in the dark room you have a shot showing what is outside, but that shot won't show what's inside, it will be mostly black; but you have another shot with the interior detail and the window is white). The HDR software then chooses to use the bright detail from the first image and the dark detail from another. It must map that range onto the 8 or 10 bits of brightness your monitor supports (or whatever your printer allows, etc.), but you still see a lot more Dynamic Range from the original scene. One issue is making it look natural, although some people like more unnatural looks, that's for the photographer and audience to debate (personally I'm not a fan of overblown HDR effects except in rare subjects).

It's best to use a Tripod (or random bit of scenery to rest the camera on) to shoot the bracketed images, but if they are shot close together (many cameras have bracketing options that wull shoot the images in a short burst, or even HDR options where you can choose to keep the original images), ideally with stabilisation in-lens, in-body or both, then you can still get good results. Most HDRs I've done were shot hand-held.


I really like the Franzis Projects tools and some are quite excellent (their B+W converter is the best I know and Sharpen Projects is again excellent once you get away from its default attempt), so I always try to see if I can help people get over the initial learning curve. (Registering if you haven't done it for a Franzis tool before is also an adventure, but the tools are good IMHO.) I like their HDR tool (which you can easily use by taking three bracketed exposures, the correct one and typically ones at plus and minus two stops, allowing you to overcome the limited range of brightnesses cameras support in a single image) and think it is well worth installing. Another free option used to be HDR Efex 2 which is part of the Nik Tools which were Google and are now DXO, and were available as a free download when they were Google, so might still be around. Note the Nik tool is a Plugin but you can just (on Windows) drag a link to the HDR Efex 2 .exe to the desktop and go from there (although IIRC it just saves the result in a "standard" location rather than offering a choice). If you have Lightroom that also has built-in HDR support.

Note that HDR Projects 5 has a lot of options and you may need to play around a bit to get a natural looking HDR, unless you fancy doing something with a more unnatural look (although some people are not fans of highly processed HDRs others like the effect).

Oh and while I am doing a bit of a quick start guide don't forget to check out the manual, especially the stuff on Ghosting removal.

As I said it's a bit of a pain to register (unless you've done one of their tools before) but persevere and you'll get there.

You can either combine multiple images into an HDR or just select a Raw file (if you have one) and work from that (it won't be as good, but a fair bit better than the JPEG).

With the HDR software in today's give-away you have an additional step beyond just opening a photograph, you have to select the images to combine and choose some options. I was very pleased to see it has support for Raw file import, although as an older version I don't know how it will do with the very latest cameras (but see at the bottom for a partial solution to this).

Once you’ve imported the images it works in basically the same way as the other Franzis Projects software.

The thing to get your brain around with the Projects software is they are a huge pile of image processing tools, which are gathered together into presets in the left pane. All those options do is select a bunch of processing tools and choose options for them, so they are infinitely tweakable. HDR Projects adds a multiple image merging option on top.

After you've loaded the image(s) you want to work with you can then play with the canned effects on the left side, play with assorted things on the right side panel (which should start on the “Finalise” tab). I'd go with the defaults in the "HDR Preparation" dialogue initially.

Once you are happy with that changing to "Expert" in the right panel (entirely optional and can be ignored) means you can add filters from the list at the top, select them in the middle of the panel and tweak their effects at the bottom (may need scrolling down). (The options on the left are just choosing and configuring a bunch of these options for you.) I'd be inclined to ignore this for quite some time and you never have to use it.

The boxes at the top of the left panel filter the effects that are listed in the panel, so ignore them initially. Later you can use the favourites option to make a short list of presets you prefer (generally or just for the current image).

When saving the final image note that the first dialog, where it asks for the title, is going to write that over the image, it isn't the file name. The main disadvantage is the lack of Undo operations, although you can save Restore points.

I literally spent 90 seconds working on an image and was really quite pleased with the result. If you don't mind the learning curve and fancy playing with HDR I'd recommend it.

Oh, and as advertised above - to add raw support for more recent (although not very recent) cameras:

Usually the GAotD releases come with an old Raw file import library (e.g. from 2014) so straight-out-of-the-box won't support more recent cameras. However you can just copy a later version of FreeImage.dll over the one in the program's directory to help with that (although it's still not completely up-to-date).

Look in "C:\Program Files\Franzis\HDR projects 5" and see it has an old version of FreeImage.dll, which is the library that decodes Raw images from your camera (you don't care if you only plan to use it with JPEGs). I replaced this with the newest version I have (once I've shut the program down so don't have a sharing error) which is:
FreeImage .dll 6924,800 .a.. 26-02-19
Alas usually you can download later versions from Franzis, but the downloads haven't been updated so you have to go to:
https://freeimage.sourceforge.io/download.html
and download the DLL (second link down the page)
Unzip the archive and choose the correct copy (x32/x64 - if you're running the 32-bit version of Windows your computer won't have a directory "C:\Program Files (x86)") of FreeImage.dll from FreeImage\Dist (which is 3.18.0.0, same as the one I used). I did install and test this exact file and it does work with supported cameras. You don't need the archive afterwards.

Note these are still not completely up-to-date, so recent cameras may not have Raw support and you have to use the JPG or make a 16-bit TIF file in your favourite Raw processing software (or just try 3-5 bracketed JPGs).
If you have a Mac you'll need to get the OSX version of FreeImage from SourceForge and replace the existing one, wherever it might be.

Good luck and enjoy!


P.S. one other thing, sometimes they screw up and send English users an e-mail in German rather than English, just be laid back about it... it's part of their charm (err...)

P.P.S. I should also say never pay full price for their software but if you want something subscribe to their newsletter and wait for the (usually) inevitable deal.

Reply   |   Comment by JohnL  –  23 days ago  –  Did you find this comment useful? yes | no (+49)

To clarify shooting at +/- two stops means with a shutter speed 4x and 1/4x the correct exposure. Don't adjust the aperture as that will change what is in focus. For three stops it's 8x and 1/8th.
So for example three images at +/- 3 stops could be 1/60th, 1/500th, 1/4000th
or five images at +/- 2 stops: 1/30th, 1/125th, 1/500th, 1/2000, 1/8000
(where the centre of the group is the correct exposure).
Often three images at +/- 2 stops is fine, depends how much detail is very bright or very dark in the image.

Reply   |   Comment by JohnL  –  23 days ago  –  Did you find this comment useful? yes | no (+16)

P.S. If it doesn't look good on your high-DPI display (i.e. 4k/5k monitor) friendly. I'd recommend, on Windows 10, that you right mouse button the program, select Properties, then the Compatibility tab, click "Change high DPI settings", tick "Override high DPI scaling..." at the bottom of the next dialogue and select "System (Enhanced)", or if that doesn't work well then "System".

Reply   |   Comment by JohnL  –  23 days ago  –  Did you find this comment useful? yes | no (+3)

JohnL, I have a question that is sort of technical and I was wondering if I could ask you since you seem to be so knowledgable in the technical side of photography. Could I email you and ask?
Collette

Reply   |   Comment by COLLETTE BAILEY  –  23 days ago  –  Did you find this comment useful? yes | no (0)

I don't like putting e-mail addresses where they can be scraped, but feel free to ask here, I'm sure no-one will mind...

Reply   |   Comment by JohnL  –  22 days ago  –  Did you find this comment useful? yes | no (0)

JohnL, This will be a little long, but here goes. I used lulu.com to print up a calendar of some of my photos and give them away as x-mas presents. The problem is that the printed images are not an accurate representation of the pictures I see on the computer monitor. Lulu and I went back and forth on this. I even mailed them one of my calendars and a flash drive with the original images on it and they said, yes, they can see the difference, but don't know what is causing it. The printed version has sort of a yellow/beige cast to everything. I hold up the printed calendar next to the monitor and there is a huge difference. The whites are not really white, they're more like cream. I took a picture to a printer in town and he printed up a sample and it was perfect. So I'm wondering if this has something to do with color profiles that are like in Photoshop. I know absolutely nothing about those. It's way over my head. I just take the pictures and then post-process them in various photo apps that I have like On1 and Topaz. Do you have any ideas?

Reply   |   Comment by COLLETTE BAILEY  –  22 days ago  –  Did you find this comment useful? yes | no (0)

There are three possible issues:

(1) The printer is trying to make nice images from the sort of images they usually get and that recipe breaks your images (who was it BTW).
(1a) The Printer cocked up.

(2) The images had colour profiles embedded in them and some programs at your end use those and some ignore them. For example, I can open images in different programs on my Windows PC and see different colours. This can be worse if your camera, or editor (which is?), is set to use some odd format rather than sRGB.

(3) Your monitor isn't colour accurate (most come with extra contrast and saturation and need calibration) and so what you see isn't what the printer will print (this slightly links with #1, as they may try to allow for that).

What can you do:
* Strip colour profiles out of images or ask the printers what they do with them.
* Improve the calibration of your monitor (although this may look wrong to you at first, a bit like when people calibrate their TVs).

"Strip colour profiles out of images" ->
If you're okay in a Command prompt change to the drive/directory the images are, e.g.
D:
cd \images\calendar

Put a copy of the Exiftool executable there
(extracted from https://exiftool.org/exiftool-12.26.zip )

Rename it (long story)
ren exiftool(-k).exe exiftool.exe
(Note you can paste stuff into command prompts by clicking on the icon in the top left and choosing edit->paste)

Try extracting an icc (colour) profile:
.\exiftool -icc_profile -b -w icc photo.jpg
(You may not need the ".\", it says to use the program in the current directory, as some Windows setups don't look there.)
You can type part of the file name (which you're replacing photo.jpg with) and hit the tab key to complete it (hit it a few times to cycle through matches).
If there's a profile it should say:
"1 output files created"
and you will have file photo.icc, which is the profile from the image. To see its contents type:
.\exiftool photo.icc
It'll hopefully contain a line like:
"Profile Description : sRGB IEC61966-2.1"

If you don't get an .icc file you don't have an issue with embedded colour profiles.

To remove the profile (which shouldn't be necessary usually, but can help viewing at your end) make a copy of the file:
copy photo.jpg photo-no-icc.jpg
then:
.\exiftool -ICC_Profile= photo-no-icc.jpg
Note there is a space after the "=" sign.
See how your image editing tools show each of the two files.

Monitor calibration:
Hmmm... on Win10 :

Right mouse button a clear area of the Desktop and select "Display Settings"
See what it say as Monitor Profile at the top. Hopefully it's something matching your monitor (mine says "LG HDR 4K", for example). If not it might be worth getting the setup software for your monitor and installing the profile for the display.

You can try the Windows built-in calibration to see how it looks.
Type:
change advanced col
In the search box and by then you should have "Change Advanced Colour Management" available (or Color if you speak American).
Start that.
Choose to the Advanced Tab
There's a "Calibrate Display" option down the bottom to do a fairly basic calibration, mostly to check if it's way off.
Don't do this if you are using a colour calibrator or the monitor is hardware calibrated. Mine's hardware calibrated so I'm not going any further. I assume it will make a new colour profile which you can choose on the leftmost tab (you should write down what it started as).

Also you can save images without including a colour profile in most image editing tools. Look for a ticked box saying "embed color profile" or similar.

One other thing if you use Photoshop it has a facility to show what images look like when printed. It's called "Soft Proofing", you could ask the printer if they support that (they will hopefully send you a printer profile). I Googled to save me more typing:
https://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/soft-proofing.htm

Hope that helps, as I can do at this range. Excuse any typos. If you use a Mac there is Exiftool for Mac.

Reply   |   Comment by JohnL  –  21 days ago  –  Did you find this comment useful? yes | no (0)

Sorry, I was trying to write a general reply to save me time if anyone asks again and so asked about the Printer and Tools, which you have already answered, and forgot to strip them out.

Reply   |   Comment by JohnL  –  21 days ago  –  Did you find this comment useful? yes | no (0)

Errata
- I should have said the Command Prompt instructions were for Windows
- I should have said:
Look for a ticked box saying "embed color profile", or similar, in the save dialogue.

Reply   |   Comment by JohnL  –  21 days ago  –  Did you find this comment useful? yes | no (0)

Entertainingly I find one typo, it's here:
"as I can do at this range. Excuse any typos"
->
"all ..."

Reply   |   Comment by JohnL  –  21 days ago  –  Did you find this comment useful? yes | no (0)
#2

I have HDR projects 5 (64-bit) - V5.52.02653
My question is: Is the Giveaway from today a newer version? If yes, do I have to deinstall the older version or can I install the newer version over the older one?
I hope to get an anser :) Have a great day!!!

Reply   |   Comment by Hans Oellers  –  23 days ago  –  Did you find this comment useful? yes | no (+5)

Hans Oellers, we get version 5.5.2, dated 8-8-2016.

Reply   |   Comment by krypteller  –  23 days ago  –  Did you find this comment useful? yes | no (+3)
#1

A useful stuff and a keeper in my collection. Note I have not tried to install it today. (Have got it from a different source.)

Reply   |   Comment by Martin  –  23 days ago  –  Did you find this comment useful? yes | no (-11)
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