With apologies for being later in the day – thought my post in the comments went through for anyone interested, & it didn’t.
ANALOG projects 3 was given away previously in 2017 – Franzis hasn’t updated the app, instead rolling its capabilities into COLOR projects as far as I can tell. Most all of the typical Franzis stuff applies… If there’s a Franzis wrapper where you enter ID & serial number, grab the real install file from the user temp folder. Copy the program’s folder to another copy of Windows & run it, activating as necessary, & it’ll add required files, folders, & registry entries. Like several other Franzis apps, ANALOG projects 3 shows you thumbnails of your picture with different FX applied, and you can take a minimalist approach & just click one & done. Or there’s the typically somewhat confusing controls you can play with to fine tune results. The ON1 Effects 2019 app I linked to in another post is pretty similar, better in some ways, not in others. Neither is a full-fledged image editor – not even close to it.
ANALOG projects 3 will import RAW files, but that’s just silly IMHO… for very many, the best way to use it is to just take a full hands-off approach & use one of the ANALOG projects 3 presets as-is on your jpg photos – often the point of a photo is what it captures, not its technical merits – and be done. It’s the old GIGO – the quality of what goes in is reflected in the quality of what comes out – it’s not an image editor or quality enhancer whatsoever. If you want higher quality, optimize your images 1st, then send them to the Franzis or other FX app [e.g. ON1 Effects 2019]. If you want to go all out, develop your camera’s RAW image files in an app like Lightroom, then optimize the exported results in your favorite image editing software. At the very least, every photo can benefit from just a basic levels adjustment – if you don’t want to spend time editing, just run your photo through something like PhotoLemur or one of the Engelmann apps.
As far as image RAW files go… a camera’s RAW files include most all of the sensor data the camera uses to create the jpg files the camera will also give you. That data on its own is pretty much worthless – it must be processed into an image. The reason for using RAW files is that the software that develops RAW data into jpg pictures in your camera is automated, and whenever something’s automated it’s possible [though never guaranteed] that you can do better manually. So, you import your RAW files into Lightroom or similar, then proceed to develop your photos, making all sorts of adjustments. If you don’t, if you say import your RAW files into something like ANALOG projects 3, it does a generic development that’s likely not as good as your camera’s, because your camera’s software is tweaked just for that camera, and compensates for, or masks its weaknesses. Yes, that RAW image file contains more data, but lots of it will be tossed out whether you develop the photo in Lightroom & export an image, or import the photo into the Franzis app & let it do a generic development, or if you let the camera do the developing to give you a jpg. If you want to use that data, use an app like Lightroom, where you have access to all of that data as you fine tune the image *before* exporting it as a photo.
IN a FWIW aside, saving images as 16 bit tiff files was also mentioned. That’s likely a bit silly too, as the extra 8 bits is normally just used for things like layer data, which you most probably aren’t using here really. It might be of some sort of use if you were importing the photo back into something like P/Shop, but that would also probably be working backwards.