While 4Videosoft's Ripper is fine, there's not too much IMHO to say about one vs another. You may like one or more features that are important to you in the 4Videosoft DVD Ripper, while someone else may have other priorities that are best matched in another app.
It's a more-or-less standard ffmpeg-based converter, using QT to keep things moving fast, has a non-resizable window, and is self-contained, meaning it doesn't effect video handling across Windows. Folders are added to Program Files or Program Files (x86), My Documents, Users\ [UserName]\ AppData\ Local\, & Program Data. New registry keys are added for the QT cache, a 4Videosoft key, & uninstall entries.
That said, In case it helps...
You can get video to watch several ways: you can download a video file, you can stream online video, you can play a DVD or Blu-ray video disc you buy or rent, you can subscribe to a cable service, use a similar service delivered via your phone lines rather than cable, you can subscribe to a satellite TV service, you can use an antennae to receive broadcast TV.
Downloading video files is generally not legal because of copyright issues, and you may run into security issues because the sources or hosts for those files may have a malicious intent. Broadcast TV can work, but you're limited in the selection of what's available to watch, and digital broadcast works best when there's a direct line-of-site between your antennae & the broadcast antennae -- it's easy for buildings etc. to block the signal. One advantage is that recording digital broadcast is easy -- you simply save the file that's broadcast as-is
The subscription services are subject to outages, dropped signals, a still somewhat limited selection, and generally higher prices. Streaming online video can be expensive too, you're limited by the speed and quality of your online connection, and you can hit data caps if you have one. The main limitations of DVD & Blu-ray are the cost, and the need to store them if you buy rather than rent.
When it comes to quality, there's really no way that you can beat the higher bit rate of Blu-ray video. Subscription services use lots of video compression [which lowers quality] so they can move more channels through the pipes, including PPV, and glitches from signal loss while watching are common [you might be connected by cable, but the cable provider might still get their original signals via satellite]. Broadcast tends to be lower resolution. Streaming video is both highly compressed, and prone to show a lower resolution picture if your connection has issues.
When DVDs were more popular, it was also more popular to copy DVDs to hard drives, then use apps like Windows Media Center to organize & play your collection. Nowadays you could still do pretty much the same thing with Blu-ray video, but more people store lower bit rate & sometimes lower resolution copies. That's a big quality hit, but to them the convenience is more important. It can also be partly necessity -- a lot of the cheap networked player boxes will not handle Blu-ray bit rates.
Blu-ray & DVD video can also be re-encoded or converted to lower bit rate AVC video that's also may have smaller frame sizes to be used on mobile devices. Depending on the physical size of the screen, you're often just as well off, if not in better shape using streaming, but then it can get expensive unless you're using Wi-Fi.
The most important spec to look at 1st is the dpi of the mobile device's screen -- if it's 1200 x 800 there's no reason to ever exceed 720p with your converted video. The 2nd thing to test is if the device will handle the max resolution video encoded to AVC [or H.165] with the standard or most common optimizations -- these formats can use a lot of post processing, those optimizations add to the processing load, and the device might not be powerful enough to handle it well... when it can't, you're best off to reduce the video frame size.
The 3rd thing to look at, if/when you're interested in maximizing efficiency & smaller file sizes, is using non-standard frame sizes. Most video today is wide screen & it often still includes letter boxing. Very often you can cut off the letter boxes, storing only the parts of the frame that actually have a picture, and that will make the video file smaller. Whether it works or not depends on the player and it's available options or settings.
4th, you need to determine the bit rate you should use, which basically translates into the amount of video compression. Less compression equals higher quality AND bigger file sizes, while the opposite is just as true. So you either reduce the bit rate in steps until you find the lowest quality that you can live with, or increase it in steps until you no longer see an improvement. As you'd guess, this depends on the quality & size of the display -- you see more on a 10" screen than you do on one that's 5", and that includes the glitches and artifacts you can get from higher levels of video compression. And it also depends on the source -- a DVD with already lower quality video will have glitches and artifacts that you won't get rid of with a higher bit rate.
The biggest obstacle to ripping [converting the video] or copying is DRM, which sometimes may include Cinavia protection embedded in the audio -- while it can't generally be removed, Cinavia is only a problem if you use a DVD or Blu-ray player, as most software players & media player boxes won't recognize it. While DVD DRM is not as heavy as that found on Blu-ray discs, it evolves, same as on Blu-ray, so some [usually new] discs may not play correctly after copying or converting.
While several frame sizes are part of the DVD spec, video is normally 720 x 480 or 720 x 576, depending on the country where it was released. Both sizes use non-square pixels, & are anamorphic for wide screen [16 x 9]. What that means is that if you play the original video in a regular software player, the aspect ratio of the picture will be distorted. *Usually* DVD rippers or converters handle the aspect ratio issues just fine, but it's also *usually* possible to make output format settings that cause a distorted aspect ratio in the output, so running a short test video through the ripper is often a good idea when using custom settings.
The video on a DVD is mpg2, and the video itself most often nowadays is at the lowest quality that most people watching DVDs will accept. The reason is likely to discourage conversion & piracy. Since every time you (re)encode video you lose some quality, you might not always be happy with the quality of converted DVD video -- the only way around it unfortunately is to use a higher quality original, e.g. Blu-ray. An alternative however is to use the original DVD video as-is, without conversion.
As above, when DVDs were more popular it was very common to copy the video to a hard drive, & use something like Windows Media Center to organize & play that video. That's still an option, including with most mobile devices running Android -- the main penalty is file size, which is usually 4-7 GB vs. ~2-3 GB for the video converted to AVC, though you'll usually I think have to install another player like VLC. Most Android devices include chips to assist with decoding & playing AVC, which requires a lot of processing -- mpg2 takes very little processing power, so usually all it takes is a software player [e.g. VLC] that understands the mpg2 format.
Regarding Speed...
Most DVD drives have a speed governor that kicks in when you have a video DVD in the drive. That means that the rate at which data is read & transferred will always be somewhat slow, regardless the max speed of the drive, regardless the software you're using. [MediaCodeSpeedEdit *may* help, but it's also possible to brick your drive.]
Encoding & decoding AVC/H.264 [&/or H.265] is processing intensive, and the encoder most often used by these apps is X264, which has very limited potential for hardware assist. If you're using a converter to encode AVC you might be better off to turn hardware assist off in the settings -- try it both ways, on & off, to see what works fastest. Either way it shouldn't take long, but if you're after the fastest conversion possible, look for software specialized to work with your graphics processor -- they'll generally use another encoder besides X264, and quality will vary.
Regarding Audio...
DVDs usually use AC3, with some having DTS -- Blu-ray will usually have DTS with some AC3. Blu-ray audio is usually a higher bit rate, & often has a 5.1 core audio stream inside a higher bit rate HD version with more channels. If your goal is an AVC equivalent to DVD, DVD spec AC3 usually works fine. Both AC3 & DTS are lossy, meaning you lose data when you encode to those formats. And like with video, if you re-encode either you'll lose some more quality. There are several tools you can use to do any conversion, but you should watch out for any normalization features. AC3 & DTS on DVD & Blu-ray often use a theater mix, meaning a very high dynamic range between the quietest passages & the loudest. They also often boost the rear channels, & possibly the bass more than you'd like.
Audio conversion software often compensates automatically, but it also often compensates Too much, so test the results with different apps to see what you like best. If storage space is less of a problem, tsMuxeR can strip out the 5.1 core audio from AC3 &/or DTS HD tracks. And if/when you don't like the audio options a ripper or converter offer you, there are several software tools that will let you demux, separating the audio & video streams, & mux, put the audio & video together in a single file using another audio stream [file].
[If your goal is to copy a Blu-ray disc, there's currently a big price difference between dual & single layer blanks. If you don't want to use dual layer, but the audio & video won't fit as-is, using the core audio as above might help -- if not, the only way forward is to re-encode the audio &/or video. Either way the same app or multiAVCHD can create a Blu-ray compatible file set.]
Regarding Subtitles...
Usually you'll want to copy the DVD [or Blu-ray] to your hard drive 1st. Then you can use specialized software to OCR the subtitle track into a specially formatted text file, usually [SomeName].srt. If that file is named the same as your finished AVC video file, & in the same folder or directory, many video players can use it to display subtitles when you enable that option.
DVD & Blu--ray subs are actually images on an overlaid track with a transparent background -- as images there's an app that can resize them. There's also software to adjust the timing of either subs as images or text. And there's software to turn text subs into image--based subs. It is possible to embed text or image subs into some video formats, though player compatibility varies. If you use Nero Recode to convert a DVD without DRM to AVC it can embed the subs at the same time.